Determined to leave the pandemic behind, Ernesto Naranjo has designed an escapist wardrobe for fall. After a playful spring 2022 proposal, his new collection draws again on Peggy Guggenheim as muse, with special reference to the legendary parties she hosted in Venice. “I haven’t lost much, but the growth [of the brand] has stopped and I can’t wait to forget it all,” he said.
The Madrid skyline inspired a palette of dark shades of gray and brown, set against the metallic charge of the accessories. Extremely oversized madroños (traditional Spanish knitted pom-poms) mingle with fringed boas of three and a half meters, and heavy wool and stretch knitted fabrics merge in a maximalist display that also includes crochet. “I really like mixing the handmade part with the very technical fabrics, I think that provides a very nice balance,” he said.
Fall marks the beginning of a new endeavor for Naranjo: menswear. “The transition has been very organic,” he said, alluding to the men who were already buying his womenswear. When asked about the stars of the collection, he emphasized androgynous items like the trench coat and, especially, the buttoned shirt. “At the end of the day, sales are your guidance,” he said. “Our aim is to make things easy for our clients and give them options to choose from.”
