Entertainment

Hyke Tokyo Spring 2023

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Every season, Hyke designers Hideaki Yoshihara and Yukiko Ode infuse their work with a sense of utility and sport mixed with ease and femininity. For spring, they built upon these signature codes, and drew further inspiration from the great outdoors — complete with shoes done in collaboration with outdoorsy brand Keen. Both avid campers and trail running enthusiasts, the design duo wanted a collection that felt like it was built for performance — referencing vintage workwear and military uniforms to do so — but put forward staples that you could also wear to work, or even on a Friday night out.

One of the main performance fabrics Hyke used this season is Pertex, a lightweight waterproof fabric, which they used on Desert Storm-style military silhouettes. In fact, many of the outerwear pieces referenced military staples; the cropped vests, for instance, nodded to vintage U.S. military L-2A flight jackets, while the longer-sleeve coats were inspired by M-65 jackets. The nylon anoraks — styled oversized with clean, unfussy lines — were also reminiscent of parkas used for mountain climbing.

It wasn’t all rough-and-tumble materials, though. There was a deliberate attempt at softening and elevating pieces to make them feel more feminine. Long smock dresses, made of micro rip-stop nylon, a popular material in pieces meant for trail running, were surprisingly elegant; as were blouses that subtly referenced vintage military shirts with patch pockets on the chest, offset by softer, sheer sleeves, and trousers with a tulle skirt overlay. Elsewhere, lighter linens, cotton knits, and denim chambrays were used for some of the tailored separates, but the netted chord skirts were a standout. Perhaps the most special, however, were the opening breezy maxi dresses with an original print inspired by pebbles found in the river during one of their nature walks. From the creek to the catwalk.

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